Virtual Angel Eye hallucination — LED city bulb customisation

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For some reason, my city halogen light bulbs (H6W) always blew off after 8 to 12 weeks of usage, particularly on the driver side (for RHD car). Upon closer observation, the driver side headlight housing is covered, mainly to provide an air induction routing for air intake. It is likely that this design, couple with the excess heat generated by the xenon light, that cause the light bulb to be blown off easily. Well, just a 'scientific-not-proven but an attempt to be logical' attempt to explain the phenomenon!

Click here for larger imageClick here for larger imageLED Trying to find a reliable halogen H6W bulbs in the market is akin to finding a needle in the ocean! To date, only certain mercedez benz ride is using H6W for their city lighting purposes, and they definitely do not come cheap!

It was imperative for me to find one that is robust and reliable, regardless of its price tag. The cost saving of changing a bulb every 3 months justify a pricey tag, if that is what it takes.

bulbs are supposed to withstand heat better (as long as it is operating within a given heat range), and less chances of fusing off due to its diode based technology as compared to filament based halogen bulbs.

However, there are none in the market that has LED in H6W format, and therefore some customisation is requied once more to make this happen!

The closest LED bulbs I can find in the market (from tmtuning.com but now readily available in local market) is a 2 pin one like the one on the left.

The main difference between this LED bulb, and conventional H6W bulb, lies on their connector pin location, as shown below. The left picture shows the LED bulb with the 2 pins position at 180 degree angle, while the H6W bulb has the pins positioned at 270 degree angle.

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Because of the pin location, the LED bulb will not be able to fit into the bulb socket without filing off one of the pin. The trick therefore is to file away the positive point (LED bulbs have polarity requirement), so that the bulb can be slotted into the socket easily without any blockage, while continuing to provide contact point to the socket.

When the bulbs are fitted and litted up,

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They create the ring effect, giving it a 'virtual bimmer angel eye look'!

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A prelude to “Joey mod” on my OEM Bosch HID

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Not for the weak heart, not especially when it cost $550 SGD per headlight, and the process of splitting the headlight housing and the lens will turn off anyone unless you are a hardcore DIY enthusiast.

This is just a picture of a headlight that I managed to get hold, and splitted them into two as shown. The process is tough, because you need to use industrial dryer to melt the sealant that firmly binds the lens and the housing together. The sealand is so tough that splitting the lens and housing is a PITA job!

bookmark this article for future update

Personalised with W8 feature … the dome light

Click here for larger image When I first saw this mod in vwvortex, I was very excited, because it look so elegant and OEM. My first reaction was, “Hey, how can VW ever missed this equipment in their factory assembly line, they should compensate their customers with a recall!”

Of course, the reaction was made in a jest, but very soon, the plan of action is very clear; to get this modification realised by hook or by crook. The thought of installing this W8 dome light myself is also quite taunting. You see, everything that I touched, will either break or become dysfunctional.

But the DIY spirit prevails, and the result was one of the most satisfaction, from all mods I have performed so far.

First thing first, parts required

W8 domelight (gray interior) 3B7 947 105 F2EN 1 ea
repair wire (for 6 pin plug) 000 979 131 2 ea
6 pin plug (male) 3B0 972 706 1 ea
3 pin plug housing (female) 893 971 993 1 ea
repair wire (for 3 pin plug) 000 979 103 2 ea
led wedge-type H12V6 bulb (non-vw parts) 4 ea

More about the parts

Our stock wire harness is made to connect to a domelight that uses 3-pin plug, and to install W8 domelight, we need to modify so that the stock harness is re-wired to connect to the W8 dome light that uses 6-pin plug.

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The parts required are shown in the diagram above (with the exception of led bulbs, not shown). Of the 6 items listed, two of them are optionals. The 3 pin plug housing (893971993) and the female repair wire (893971993, as indicated by the red arrow in the diagram on the left) are required only if you intend to build an adapter (between stock harness and 6 pin plug housing in the W8 domelight), instead of splicing and cutting the existing harness.

Detailed steps

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1. Remove the plastic cover from the stock panel, and you unscrew the screws shown in the photo, pointed by the red arrows.

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2. Pry open the stock panel. I did the wrong way and end up more effort required to take out. You should be prying first at the 2 points pointed by the red arrows.

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3. When the stock panel is taken out, remove the overhead light visor too so that you can run a wire through that area.

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4. Once you managed to run the wire through the edge of the windscreen, push the wire down the a-pillar.

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5. Run the wire (for dimmer) into the roof fabric linen and through the edge of the roof to the a-pillar.

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6. Open the side cover where the fuse box is. You need to access to the bottom of the A-pillar in order to complete the running of the dimmer wire.

As a safety precautious, you may want to take out fuse #14 at the same time, so that any wrong wiring you made in the next few steps (touch wood!) does not blow off your fuse, and you are modifying on a open circuit environment.

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7. From the bottom of A-pillar, get hold of the dimmer wire, and pull down long enough so that you can tap on the eur switch later on

8. Remove the euroswitch and unplug the switch. If you are not familiar on how to remove the euroswitch, simply push in the knob and turn the knob to the center position, and pull out the euroswitch.

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You will get to see a set of wires, and basically the blue-gray wire that the dimmer wire needs to tap on is pointed by the red arrow points in the diagram. It should be the wire in the position #17.

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9. To make sure I got the right wire tapped, I just do a temporary tapping and move on to working on the rest of the wirings & connections.

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10. Since I have 2 of the repair wires (000 979 103, bronze tip), I cut them into half, and plug the 3 wires into the housing as shown.

This step is optional and can be skipped if you are not building an adapter.

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11. Next I work on the new 6-pin plug. The terminals of the repair wire (000 979 131) should be fitted into position 1, 3, 4 and 5. You will see a small number writing on the plug as pointed by the various colored arrows. (red:1, blue:3, green:4, yellow: 5).

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12. We are ready to create the adapter now.

Once all the repair wires are fitted into the 6-pin plug and 3-pin housing, connect the wires up! The wire #1 should leave as it is as we will be connecting it to the dimmer wire later on.

  • Wire #4 connects to the stock brown wire (or the wire #1 in the housing).
  • Wire #5 goes to stock blue-red wire (or wire #2 in the housing).
  • Wire #3 goes to blue-gray (or wire #3 in the housing).
  • Wire #1 will be linked to the dimmer wire later

Note that if you are not creating an adapter, and have skipped step 10, you need to tap the wires (000 979 131) directly onto the stock harness wires.

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13. Plug the stock harness into the 3 pin-plug housing. Tap wire #1 to the dimmer wire as shown

Click here for larger image14. Test the connection, you should have all switches and buttons working accordingly. The led should also lit up when you turn your euroswitch. If everything is okay, tidy up the wirings, use wire connector if possible, and fit the panel back to the roof linen.

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15. Put the W8 domelight back to the roof linen. The domelight is mounted and held on the roof via 2 metal clips behind. Here's a view of the domelight when euro switch is turned on at stage 1 position.

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16. All the lights are in action by turning the euro switch to full position. You should also test if the light turns on/off when you open and close the doors.

finally, if you have the wedge-type led bulbs, you will achieve the following effect

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Other references

1. VWvortex's SoFlaJetta W8 DIY guide
2. Hillside Imports' [Official W8 Overhead console install
3. Cars & Cars Part department (Singapore VW dealer)
4. Alternate part supplier: Hillside Imports
5. Alternate part supplier: Tmtuning.com
6. Additional information from Vwvortex

A purple and yellow coil spring. Will it sachs for that premium price?

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I can't help but sing praise for my 5 month old suspension setup.

After fixing all the irritating rattles and squeaks, I found that riding over bumps and stripes can be so enjoyable *Smile*

With a comfort-bias tyre like Aspecdb, I didn't necessarily have missed out the joy of hard cornering. Maybe it's compromised alittle, but it feels so good when you corner at 100km/h on a slip road and the car is still under your control.

Looking back, I did not regret much on the decision to go for a particular brand of sports cupkit suspension . Not to be mistaken that as sort of the buy of the year, on contrary, it helps me to appreciate the beauty of the setup I have today.

Interestingly speaking, when I first switch on to that sports suspension, the journey back home was the worst ride to-date. My wife and myself got a severe headache as the bump is simply too pronounce. Run-in period lah, as you may said, and true enough, the ride shortly settled down, and ride revert back to a more acceptable level.

As they say, "Suffer if you don't listen to the old folks tale". The ride never gets better, and very soon, in 6 months time, my teeth juddered like it's coming out anytime.

Luckily for me, my suspension lesson was partially sponsored for by some good kind soul, who kindly bought over the setup at 1/2 the price, damn good price for it, and since he loves the cornering and ride characteristic of the setup, why not. At least I know I cannot compromise comfort just for a decent handling. There must be a perfect ride somewhere out there.

Well there seems to be one. Otherwise, I KWA WAT liao. Thanks to the guy who call me cheapskate initially when I insisted that cupkit suspension cannot be worst off that much compare to a coilover. But hey, at least I didn't spend twice the amount just to find out there's other coilover that's better.

If I can slam my car now fully, I would love to do that, but doing so will render my car becoming a bump scrapper.

until I find the next better player, this will be my choice of suspension again if I happen to change my car next time. Or rather, I should say, I must change a car that falls within a list of application of this choice of suspension.

author is not liable for any reader's experience that differs from what was described when fitted with author's choice of suspension. Author merely hopes to share his own perspective that coil is no longer over, and most importantly, he gets his free gift finally from the distributor

Completing the OEM feature, in a DIY fashion

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Most of VW cars in Singapore come with euroswitch, which controls lighting systems, such as headlight, taillight , foglight to rear foglight.

If you are observant enough, you realised that the euroswitch has LED indicators to indicate the operation status of the all the lights, except the rear fog lights. Any layman will have this pass, thinking that it's designed to be that way. But if you bother to dig on this matter further, you realise that all it takes is a new LED bulb that cost no more than $1 SGD, to enable the rear foglight indicator feature.

So why doesn't VW AG include this item when they ship to their customer? Tax savings? Well, I guess only the product marketing director of VW AG knows it best!

But thanks to the knowledgebase from VwVortex, there exists a simple option to upgrade your euroswitch to have this missing feature, literally at minimal cost! Here's the how-to instructions, for your reference.

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1. Before the mod, see the fog light icon (at the bottom left), and compare it to the finished result, if you don't understand what this mod is about…

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2. This is what you need. The ampere of the LED should be no more than 6mA. Otherwise, you need to put in some resistors to bring down the amps.

3. Take out the euroswitch from the dashboard. To do so, just turn the switch knob until the knob is vertically straight (just after the 2nd stage), and pull out with a small jerk. You will find the switch is now loose, and you can now pull it out.

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4. When you have taken out the switch, do observe the switch from all angles. You will find some tabs as shown in the picture above, highlighted in red circle. There are tabs on both side of the switch. Dismantle the switch by prying the tabs on both sides.

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5. Once you have dismantled the top and bottom half of the euroswitch, you can further slowly dismantle the circuit board and springs as shown above. Observe and analyse the circuit board as shown in the 2nd and 3rd diagram
above.

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6. You notice that there are LED bulbs already on the circuit board. These LED bulbs are litted up when the switch turn on appropiate lighting devices. You will need to analyse the spot where you add new LED bulb. The pictures above show the location of the new bulb, from the front and back of circuit board perspective.

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7. Setup the wiring linkages as shown in the first diagram above. Proceed to solder the points, and you have the bulb setup correctly.

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Picture of the circuit board with the new LED bulb setup successfully

Operation of 'Enhanced' Euroswitch in stages

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a. Finished result: Before turning on the rear fog
b. Stage 1: When the euroswitch is turned on ..
c. Stage 2: When the euroswitch is turned to switch on headlight
d. Final Stage: When the euroswitch is turned to switch on rear fog light

Color-coding the Volkswagen rear emblem

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Color coding the base of rear VW emblem, by removing the emblem from the boot, and spray-paint in a DIY fashion!

After two attempts of color-coding the rear VW emblem without removing the assembly, I decided to take a bold step in stripping the lock assembly so as to have the access of the VW emblem independently. Actually, because of the ugly result of the previous attempt, I have no choice but to take it out to rectify the situation.

At the end of the whole DIY process, I must admit the result is very satisfying and I should have gone straight into this when the idea of color-coding first come about.

First of all, we need some torx screw drivers (torx-20), philips screw driver, and flat head screw driver.

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We also need some painting tools, which I bought them mostly from a hobbyist shop. That includes the primer, the silver and clear-coat paint in spray-can form, as well as some alcohol for some preparation works.

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Once we have the tools, here we begin!

Step 1. Removing the boot linen cover

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Step 1a. Unscrews 13 screws off from the linen cover . The screws are cross-philip type.

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Step 2. Remove the emergency hazard triangle plate as shown

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Step 2a. Detaching the triangle holder by unscrewing the torx screw on the holder as shown below.

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Step 2b.. The boot linen cover when the 13 screws and triangle holder full detached.

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L: Boot cover out of action
C: Internal view of trunk lid in its bare form
R: A closeup view of the integrated lock assembly in the trunk

Step 3. Uninstall the lock assembly

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Step 3a. Unplug the power harness from the lock assembly socket

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Step 3b. Unclip the lock connector as shown

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Step 4. Detach the lock assembly & emblem from the boot by unscrewing the 3 torx screws.

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Boot with the lock assembly removed

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A close up look of the lock assembly

Step 5. Dismantle the emblem and lock assembly

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Step 5a. Remove the rubber base, and the emblem from the lock assembly by pulling them apart

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Step 5b. Unclip the chrome looking VW badge from the black plastic base. Note that the black plastic shown in the picture already has the shape of VW paint on it, because of my earlier attempt to paint on it with the emblem on.

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Disintegrated emblem/lock assembly

Step 6. Prepare for painting …

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In the meantime, ensure your boot is safe from rain and theft!

Step 7. Spray paint the plastic base

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Step 7a. Allow it to dry and repeat two more times

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Step 8. Clear coat the fella! To be safe, I have 3 layer of clear coat in between the drying process.

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Step 9. Finally when it's done, clip the VW chrome emblem on the silver-painted base plastic as shown.

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Step 10. Put back the assembly in the reverse manner from Step 6 to 1…

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Step 11. Test to ensure everything is alright

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When it's done and mounted back

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Close up of the finished result

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Bright up my days … with Hella universal foglight & 6000K cool xenon bulb

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All sports cars come with flashy fog light. Alright, this is just an ego statement. But being someone who emphasis alot on the styling of my ride, I find my ride missing with some thing, just like a lady going into glamourous party without putting on mascara. Oh wait, yes, there is no fog light on my ride. Nevermind that I have already upgraded my stock headlight to HID one, doesn't matter that my HID is so bright that fog light serve little purposes. I just need to complete that look!

With my projektzwo front bumper, there is no aftermarket fog lights that could fit onto my bumper without any customisation. Ong Hock Chye's Ah Soon, the man who made my day with the HID retrofitting, came to rescue once more. He did a very good salesman talk on me, convincing me that I should just go with Hella MicroDE Universal fog light system, and he will take care of the rest of customisation.

True enough, his words are his commitment. And the results show why he's the man when it comes to customisation job!

Obviously, you need to remove the bumper. The wiring to the fog light will basically be leveraging from the existing stock wire relays, which already had provision for fog light in the stock headlight, but are no longer used because of the HID headlight retrofit.

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Ah-Soon did a fantastic job in finding a good position for the fog light to be mounted securely. Look closely into the pictures below, you realised that the fog lights are just mounted on one of the bumper internal structure! Clever move!

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Close up of the fog light and its mounting position

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Tapping the wires from the existing headlight harness

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By the way, Ah soon did another salesman talk on me and I was led by the nose basically, as I also upgraded my HID bulb to Philips Cool Xenon 6000K!

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Front view of my ride with fog light fitted

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More pictures will be uploaded soon, to show the setup when completed, and the differences between 4100K and 6000K HID lumination.